If you’re looking to grow and maintain long, healthy natural hair, understanding the dynamics of moisture is important. All sorts of oils have made the rounds online, each promising luscious hair and other benefits, leading many to rely on oils alone for hair care, even for moisturizing the hair. While oils play a significant role in maintaining hair health, it’s crucial to debunk the misconception that they can function as true moisturizers.
Oil Vs Water
Oils do not moisturize hair nearly the same way that water does. Hair moisturization has to do with the addition of moisture to the hair shaft. While the two may each offer moisture in their own way, the key difference lies in their mechanisms of action when applied to the hair.
The mechanisms of action of each
- Water, the true moisturizer:
- Water has the unique ability to penetrate the hair shaft, instantly providing the moisture that’s essential for retaining hair length, maintaining elasticity, and sustaining the overall health of the hair.
- Oils as sealants
- Oils, on the other hand, don’t have the same penetrative abilities that water does. When applied to the hair strands, they don’t incorporate moisture; rather, they form a protective film on the hair surface. They can do this because they are hydrophobic, i.e., they don’t mix with water. This protective film helps seal in the moisture already present in the hair, preventing it from evaporating into the air. This is why oils are usually referred to as sealants and not moisturizers.
Why oils are not true moisturizers
- Their penetration is limited.
- As explained earlier, oils can’t penetrate the hair shaft the same way that water does. They are much less penetrative, and they don’t provide the hair with the essential moisture it needs to thrive.
- They form a protective barrier.
- Oils primarily function to seal in existing moisture rather than introduce new hydration. They prevent moisture loss and offer lubrication that reduces friction between hair strands.
The ideal approach to using both
- Properly moisturize first. A spray of water on the hair or the application of a water-based product should be the first step in any hair care routine. Water and water-based products like moisturizing sprays and leave-in conditioners deliver the moisture that the hair needs on a regular basis. By moisturizing first, you’re also making the hair softer and easier to manage for processes like detangling and styling. Proper moisturization prevents breakage during these hair processes.
- Seal with oils: Once you’ve moisturized your hair, only then can you apply an oil. This step prevents the loss of the moisture you’ve incorporated, as well as adding some shine to the hair. Opt for lightweight oils like avocado, argan, or jojoba.
Bottom-line
Water remains the true moisturizer. While oils don’t easily penetrate or provide the essential moisture your hair needs, they’re still crucial for sealing in moisture and nourishing your hair and scalp. So the next time you’re doing haircare, remember: water first, oils second.