Natural hair, often referred to as our crowning glory, is as diverse and unique as the people who possess it. Yet, for decades, the beauty industry has attempted to categorize this diversity into neat classifications, most notably through the Andre Walker hair typing system. However, this system, ranging from 1a to 4c, fails to capture the intricate nuances of our hair, leading to misconceptions and frustrations among many. In reality, most of us harbor more than one kind of hair texture, density, and other characteristics on our heads, defying simple categorization. We’ll be delving into why your head may have different hair textures to better understand the complexity.
The Andre Walker hair typing system, also known as The Hair Chart, which was popularized by Oprah Winfrey’s longtime hairstylist in the 1990s, categorizes hair into four main types based on curl pattern, from straight to tightly coiled. While this system serves as a basic guideline, it oversimplifies the diversity of hair and fails to consider crucial factors such as porosity, strand thickness, density, and elasticity. As a result, many individuals find themselves misclassified or feel inadequately represented by this system.
Contrary to the rigid categories of the Andre Walker system, the reality is that most people possess multiple textures on their heads. For instance, one might have loose waves at the crown, tighter curls at the nape, and a combination of textures throughout. This diversity can be influenced by factors like genetics, environmental elements, and even styling practices, highlighting the obvious flaw of trying to limit our hair into one single category.
Recognizing the limitations of the Andre Walker system, many individuals have turned to alternative methods for understanding their hair. One such approach is the LOIS typing system.
The LOIS Hair Typing System is a classification method designed to describe and categorize different hair types, particularly among Black women. Unlike some other hair typing systems, LOIS avoids using numerical labels and instead uses letters to represent specific characteristics of hair strands. Let’s delve into the details:
The LOIS system goes beyond just curl patterns. It also considers other factors such as hair width, sheen, and shine. To determine your hair type using LOIS, follow these steps:
For an in-depth view on how the LOIS system works and how to best determine your individual hair type, check out this video: https://youtu.be/xwMFG4lT4jY?feature=shared
Whether you prefer LOIS or other systems, the goal is to celebrate the diversity of natural hair and nurture it with the right care. Here are some tips to help you out:
Understanding the uniqueness and diversity of our natural hair is crucial. While systems like the Andre Walker hair typing system provide a starting point, they fail to capture the full spectrum of our hair’s complexity. By adopting a holistic approach, such as the LOIS typing system, and recognizing the ever-changing nature of our hair, we can cultivate a deeper appreciation for our natural hair. Remember, you are a gem.
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